Behind the Stones: Emeralds, Uncovered
As we enter the month of May, we’re turning our gaze towards one of history’s most seductive gemstones: the emerald. Known for its lush green glow and long-standing links to love, luck and royalty, the emerald is a stone that never fails to turn heads. As May’s birthstone, it holds a special place in our hearts at Sophie Breitmeyer. Here’s why Sophie will always be under its spell.
A Gem with History and Soul
The allure of emeralds lies not only in their beauty but in their depth, both literally and metaphorically. More than any other gemstone, emeralds have a sense of presence. Mysterious, rare and steeped in stories, these stones are full of soul.
Their rich green colour has, for millennia, been associated with rebirth, hope and everlasting love. Cleopatra was famously obsessed with emeralds, so much so that she claimed ownership of all the emerald mines in Egypt. The Mughal emperors had them carved with sacred text to wear as protective talismans. And in modern times, emeralds have remained the stone of choice for those drawn to something a little more romantic, a little more regal and a lot more unique.
The Colour of Emotion
No two emeralds are ever exactly the same. Their hues can range from crisp, spring green to deep, velvety forest tones, determined by the minerals present during their formation. It’s what makes them so captivating to work with as a designer. Some stones glow with an inner fire, others with a soft, ethereal light. Each has its own mood and its own energy.
Emerald Origins
When it comes to emeralds, origin matters, with each source bringing its own distinctive charm. Colombian emeralds are often top of the list, loved for their lush, vibrant green colour and excellent clarity. Zambian emeralds are also very beautiful, with a slightly cooler, bluish undertone, thanks in part to their unique geological formation.
And let’s not forget the Panjshir Valley in Afghanistan, home to some seriously impressive emeralds that are starting to turn more and more heads in the jewellery world. Chemically, they are most similar to the legendary emeralds from the Muzo mine in Colombia. The quality coming out of Panjshir can rival, and sometimes even surpass, more traditional sources, making them a bit of a hidden gem among those in the know.
Sophie chose a Panjshir emerald for the One-of-a-Kind Bombe Ring below. Initially drawn to the stone’s vivid colour, “I didn’t want to miss out on such a special emerald,” she says. “It’s incredibly clean, with very few inclusions and, unusually, it’s completely untreated. That alone is rare for an emerald, but its origin in the Hindu Kush Mountains of Afghanistan makes it even more remarkable.”
Every Emerald Tells a Story
Unlike diamonds, emeralds are not prized for their perfection. Inclusions are expected and even celebrated. Referred to as jardins—French for gardens—because they can resemble fine tendrils or moss under magnification, they’re a little like fingerprints: unique to each stone and a lovely reminder of an emerald’s natural origins.
Because emeralds are a little more delicate than diamonds, we put a lot of thought into the design and setting of them. It’s one of the reasons why Sophie chose protective rubover settings for the emeralds in our Ribbon Set tennis bracelet.
Symbolic by Nature
If you were born in May, you’ve lucked out because emerald is one of the most enchanting birthstones you could ask for. Worn by queens, emperors and romantics throughout history, it’s a gem that feels both deeply symbolic and effortlessly beautiful. Whether you wear yours every day or save it for special moments, emeralds have always been a stone of substance and soul—the perfect way to mark a birthday, a milestone or a moment worth remembering.
